Retrofitting Over Brick: How to Install Natural Stacked Stone on Existing Brick Fireplaces

retrofitting over brick how to install natural stacked stone on existing brick fireplaces (3)
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Table of Contents

Retrofitting Over Brick can make the difference between a smooth remodel and costly project downtime, code violations, or OSHA fines. Many contractors and remodelers underestimate how painted, greasy, or uneven brick undermines natural stone adhesion, creates hidden structural loads, and drives schedule and budget overruns when they skip the right prep. Failing to address adhesion, surface flatness, and added weight early forces change orders, stops work for engineering, and raises liability on the job.

This guide functions as a practical, technical SOP for retrofitting over brick: a cost-effectiveness analysis, clear rules for when metal lath is required, the scoring and bonding approach for painted brick, non-demolition flattening techniques, and a step-by-step conversion protocol for greasy brick into a natural stone facade. The core section includes prep checklists, tools and material specs, adhesive and lath choices, safety checkpoints, sequencing, and troubleshooting, plus a lightweight structural-calculation checklist so teams can estimate thickness impacts and know when to call an engineer.

Why Retrofitting is the Most Cost-Effective Fireplace Upgrade?

Retrofitting captures existing structure value, delivers 80–85%+ thermal efficiency, and returns capital faster than demolition or full rebuild.

Quantified cost comparison: retrofit insert versus full replacement

A retrofit insert typically installs in 1–2 days, cutting labor exposure and site disruption compared with a full masonry replacement that can take multiple weeks. Older open fireplaces lose roughly 80–90% of produced heat up the chimney, while modern inserts commonly exceed 85% thermal efficiency, so you get materially higher usable heat without rebuilding the structure.

On resale, retrofit upgrades historically deliver about 70–80% return on investment (data current to 2026), because buyers value reduced operating cost and lower maintenance. Create a side-by-side estimate to prove the case: list demolition, masonry rebuild, structural framing, permits, and large waste-disposal fees against the cost of an insert unit, venting/liner, labor, and minor finish work.

  • Full-replacement line items: demolition, new hearth/footing, masonry rebuild, structural framing, extended permit fees, debris hauling.
  • Retrofit line items: insert unit, chimney liner or vent kit, single-crew labor (1–2 days), sealing/finish trim, minor permit costs.
  • Financial metric to run: present simple payback and 5-year net present value using local energy prices and expected efficiency gains.

Energy performance, fuel options, and measurable ROI drivers

EPA-certified retrofit inserts can deliver up to 50% higher combustion efficiency versus older open fireplaces and commonly exceed 85% thermal efficiency, translating into one-third less wood for the same heat output. That efficiency reduces fuel spend and creosote formation, which lowers cleaning intervals and long-term operating expense.

Retrofitting also enables fuel flexibility: convert from wood to gas or electric without major structural changes, provided you verify venting and clearance requirements for the chosen fuel. Use zone heating—heat the occupied area with the insert and lower whole-house thermostat setpoints—and model local energy prices to estimate a realistic payback timeline for customers.

Installation workflow, on-site checks, and cost-saving controls

Follow a tight pre-install sequence to avoid surprises: measure the opening dimensions, inspect and photograph the flue condition, confirm clearances and chimney cap integrity, and verify the chosen insert model will physically fit. On site, remove non-structural surround, fit the insert into the existing opening, install or line the flue as required, seal joints with high-temperature materials, then commission and test draft and combustion before leaving.

  • Pre-install checklist: measure opening, document flue condition with photos, confirm clearances, check chimney cap and crown, verify insert model fit and vent/liner compatibility.
  • On-site sequence: remove trim, set insert, run liner (stainless-steel where needed), seal with high-temp caulk, connect gas/electric where applicable, ignite and test draft.
  • Crew expectation: a single qualified crew can complete most retrofits in 1–2 days, minimizing labor hours and downtime.
  • Contingency controls: budget for a stainless-steel liner or minor chimney repairs if inspection finds degrading masonry or poor draft; set a 10–15% contingency line in estimates for unexpected chimney correction.
  • Procurement action for dealers: request pre-shipment visual verification (high-def photos and video of finished crates) and packing details before final payment to protect margins and ensure product readiness.

retrofitting over brick how to install natural stacked stone on existing brick fireplaces (2)

Does Your Old Brick Require a Metal Lath for Natural Stone Adhesion?

Decide on metal lath by testing substrate integrity, flatness and stone load to prevent adhesive failures and costly rework.

Assess brick substrate condition and load thresholds

Start with a hands-on inspection: probe for loose, spalled, powdering or delaminated bricks and check mortar joints for softness or voids. Verify surface flatness against a 300 mm gauge—keep deviations within ±5 mm; larger deviations force mechanical backing, grinding or a planar underlay before veneer work. Compare the expected veneer weight to the brick capacity: Top Source flat stacked panels weigh about 30–40 kg/m², rough panels about 55 kg/m². Plan for mechanical reinforcement when panel loads exceed roughly 40 kg/m² or when multiple finish layers add mass.

  • Perform a bond test: remove a small area and install a test panel with the chosen adhesive, or run a pull-off test to confirm bond strength meets local code.
  • Remove contaminants—paint, sealers or heavy efflorescence—back to sound brick; contaminated surfaces reduce adhesive bond and push the job toward lath plus scratch coat.
  • If bricks crumble under light pressure or mortar fails, assume mechanical support is required.

Surface preparation and adhesive systems for direct-bond installations

Clean the masonry to sound substrate using stiff brushes, pressure-wash or grit-blast to remove loose material and soluble salts; allow full drying before applying adhesive. Select a polymer-modified cementitious mortar or a structural epoxy/adhesive that the stone manufacturer approves and that tolerates expected thermal cycles and moisture conditions. For Top Source stacked panels (150×550–600 mm, thickness 10–35 mm), plan full contact support across the panel face to avoid point-loading and sag.

  • Apply mortar using full-bed or back-butter technique to achieve continuous contact; target bedding thickness of 3–10 mm and eliminate voids behind the panel.
  • Back-butter interlocking panels to ensure joints and male/female edges seat without gaps—use enough mortar to fill irregularities but avoid excess that prevents interlock engagement.
  • Follow adhesive manufacturer cure times and verify bond strength with a locally placed test panel before proceeding with large areas.

When and how to install metal lath and scratch coat for mechanical support

Specify corrosion-resistant expanded metal lath (galvanized or stainless) when the brick is weak, the surface is smooth/painted, loads exceed ~40 kg/m², or flatness exceeds tolerance. For heavy veneers use lath with a minimum mass of 2.5 lb/yd² or a 16–20 gauge equivalent. Anchor the lath into brick with stainless steel masonry anchors or screws at 200–300 mm (8–12 in) centers both vertically and horizontally, stagger anchors and maintain 75–100 mm overlaps at seams to ensure continuous mechanical support.

  • Embed a cementitious scratch coat over the lath to a target thickness of 12–20 mm and work a keyed texture while it is still workable; allow initial set/curing per product data—typically 24–48 hours under normal conditions.
  • Use through-mechanical anchors for high loads or exposed exteriors: place anchors through lath into solid brick at maximum 300 mm centers and tie anchors back to structure where possible.
  • Coordinate lath and scratch coat details with the Top Source panel system: confirm that the scratch coat profile does not block male/female engagement of Z/S interlocks or pre-made L-corners and allow clearance for panel interlocks during finishing.

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Dealing with Painted Brick: The Scoring and Bonding Secret

Properly score and verify adhesion on painted brick to avoid veneer failures and unexpected mechanical anchors on every retrofit job.

Assess and prepare painted brick: adhesion tests and mechanical keying

Identify the coating system first—latex, alkyd, elastomeric or a penetrating sealer—because each affects removal strategy and moisture transmission. Perform spot pull-off adhesion tests across representative areas and target a pull-off strength ≥1.0 MPa (≈145 psi) to predict reliable mortar bond; record failures and map weak zones before proceeding. Remove loose paint and surface contaminants with wire brushes and diamond cup grinding where feasible, then pressure-wash at 1,000–2,000 psi and allow the substrate to dry 24–48 hours depending on ambient humidity.

  • Adhesion test: pull-off ≥1.0 MPa (≈145 psi) — mark any area below threshold for full rework or lath.
  • Cleaning: wire-brush + diamond cup grinder; pressure-wash 1,000–2,000 psi; dry 24–48 hours.
  • Mechanical keying: cut angled grooves or cross-hatch abrasion spaced 25–50 mm, 1–2 mm minimum depth into coating or to sound masonry.
  • Document substrate flatness and joint voids; mark areas needing local scratch coats or leveling.

Choose and apply adhesive systems: mortar technique, trowel specs, and back-buttering

Select a polymer-modified cementitious mortar rated for stone veneer (equivalent to EN/ANSI C2-type adhesives) for exterior and heavy-panel applications; this material balances bond strength, water retention and freeze-thaw resistance. Back-butter panels to eliminate voids and use a notched trowel sized to the substrate and panel face: 10 mm x 10 mm (3/8″ square) for standard panels and 12 mm x 12 mm for rough or uneven brick. Aim for ≥85% contact area by pressing and twisting each panel to collapse notches and expel entrapped air.

  • Trowel specs: 10×10 mm for standard; 12×12 mm for rough or irregular substrates.
  • Contact target: ≥85% mortar-to-stone contact; press and rotate panels to consolidate bedding mortar.
  • Anchors: use stainless-steel mechanical anchors where required; space 300–600 mm and embed 50 mm into brick or solid backing.
  • Interlocking panels: dry-assemble male/female joints, then apply vertical adhesive beads and back-butter interlock gaps before final assembly.
  • Cure control: allow initial tack 24–48 hours; permit light impact after 7 days and longer for load-bearing or high-traffic exposures.

Verification, joint detailing, and durability controls for exterior installations

After adhesive cure perform pull-off verification on representative panels and confirm adhesion ≥1.0 MPa. Plan movement joints to prevent stress transfer: horizontal every 3–4 m, vertical every 2–3 m, plus joints at terminations, openings and changes in plane. Install flashing and a positive drainage path at the veneer base to avoid trapped moisture between painted brick and stone; design a clear drainage cavity or weep system where practical.

  • Pull-off verification: confirm ≥1.0 MPa across representative areas after full cure.
  • Movement joints: horizontal 3–4 m, vertical 2–3 m; add joints at corners, terminations and openings.
  • Sealants: use flexible, stone-compatible silicone or urethane; leave 6–12 mm joint width per exposure conditions.
  • Panel dead load: Top Source Stone flat panels ≈30–40 kg/m²; specify mechanical anchors when codes or substrate limit adhesive-only systems.
  • Durability: select mortars and anchors rated for freeze-thaw and high-salinity environments; match stone series and L-corners to maintain consistent thermal movement and appearance.

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How to Ensure Surface Flatness Without Structural Demolition?

Accurate flatness control prevents adhesion failures, reduces rework, and limits structural upgrades—saving time and cost on stone veneer retrofits.

Measure and document substrate flatness to defined tolerances

Use a calibrated laser level together with 1 m and 2 m straightedges and a digital inclinometer or floor profiler to map deviations across the entire elevation before you install anything. Record a flatness target of ≤3 mm deviation per 1 m run and accept up to 6 mm over 2 m only where unavoidable; flag those locations and plan corrective work. Capture grid-located photos, notes, and annotated measurements for pre-shipment verification and for the installer on site.

At each grid point verify substrate type — concrete, CMU, plywood over studs, plaster, or drywall — because your corrective method and fastener strategy depend on it. Use 3D laser scans or digital floor profilers when budgets allow; they reduce human error and create a verifiable baseline that simplifies adhesive and mechanical-fix decisions.

Level the plane without demolition using mechanical furring, rails, and mortars

Establish a true reference plane with corrosion-resistant metal furring channels or adjustable Z-rails, shimmed to your laser layout so the new plane stays consistent across the wall. For hollows and moderate depressions apply self-leveling cementitious underlayment or polymer-modified patching mortar; these products handle corrections up to about 25 mm (self-levelers commonly correct up to 1 inch), and you should target a finished substrate flatness of ≤3 mm per 1 m.

When you need bulk build-up, install exterior-grade plywood (minimum 12 mm) mechanically fastened to studs or to the furring channels to create a continuous backing for the veneer. Spot-bed panels with a controlled adhesive bed of 6–12 mm and back-butter each panel to ensure full contact. For Z-Shape and S-Shape interlocking panels, exploit the male/female seams to conceal minor substrate variations while keeping the plane continuous. Choose adhesives rated for natural stone and local conditions: polymer-modified cement thinset for prepared masonry, structural epoxy or high-bond MS-polymer adhesives for difficult or painted substrates.

  • Minimum plywood for backing: 12 mm exterior-grade, mechanically fastened.
  • Adhesive bed thickness: 6–12 mm with back-buttering for complete coverage.
  • Correction range: self-leveling compounds handle up to ~25 mm (1″).
  • Adhesive options to specify: Laticrete MVIS (system), Adiseal (MS-polymer), LATAPOXY 310 (epoxy).

Attach panels and verify structural safety for heavy natural stacked stone

Design for the actual panel weights and geometry: standard Top Source panels measure 150 × 600 mm (or 150 × 550 mm) with thicknesses typically 10–25 mm (up to 35 mm for rough). Use the expected dead load—approximately 30–40 kg/m² for flat panels or ~55 kg/m² for rough faces—when sizing anchors and brackets. Combine adhesive bonding with mechanical fixing on exterior walls, high-wind sites, or Gulf climates; tie anchors back to structural substrate (concrete or sheathed studs), not to finishes.

Specify stainless-steel anchors or adjustable brackets in the M8–M10 range (or manufacturer equivalent) and space them so each anchor carries the expected load plus safety factor—typical vertical anchor rows at 300 mm centers and lateral spacing per engineer guidance. Perform pull-out tests on 2–3 anchors per elevation and an adhesion test panel before full installation; verify continuous adhesive contact and absence of voids. Plan movement joints at transitions and openings with filler gaps of 6–10 mm (or per project movement study) and verify the final plane with a 1 m straightedge and a laser scan before grouting or sealing.

  • Panel specs to document: 150×600 or 150×550 mm, thickness, and estimated kg/m².
  • Anchor strategy: stainless steel M8–M10, rows every 300 mm vertically; confirm lateral spacing with engineer.
  • Quality checks: 2–3 pull-out tests per elevation and one adhesion test panel before full run.
  • Movement joints: 6–10 mm filler gap at openings, material transitions, and per movement study.

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Step-by-Step: Converting Greasy Brick into a Luxury Stone Facade

A quick, accurate assessment and strict substrate prep prevent adhesive failure and hidden structural risk when converting a brick fireplace to natural stacked stone.

Site assessment: measure opening, confirm structural load and clearances

Measure the fireplace opening and surrounding wall in millimetres and inches, and record plumb and level deviations to the nearest 1–2 mm. Calculate dead load from the chosen material: flat panels weigh about 30–40 kg/m² (8–12 lbs/ft²) and rough panels sit near 55 kg/m². Use those figures to check whether the existing substrate and framing can carry the veneer without supplemental backing.

  • Document opening dimensions and deviation tolerances; flag any out-of-plumb greater than 6 mm over 1 m.
  • If calculated veneer load exceeds 40 kg/m², plan for mechanical anchors, reinforced backing or a structural review.
  • Confirm clearance for interlocking panels and matching L-corners; account for panel thickness from 10–35 mm and total projection (veneer + mortar) of roughly 1¼”–2.

Surface preparation: degrease, abrade and install a code-compliant backing

Strip oils and soot with a solvent degreaser followed by an alkaline cleaner and verify a residue-free surface using a water-wetting test. Mechanically abrade any glazed, painted or friable brick until you reach sound, porous masonry; remove loose material and blow or vacuum dust before proceeding.

  • If brick is painted or smooth, install metal lath and a scratch coat: fasten lath 6″ on center vertically and 16″ on center horizontally, overlap horizontal laps ≥½” and vertical laps ≥1″.
  • Embed a 3/8″–3/4″ scratch coat into the lath and allow ≥24 hours to cure before installing veneer.
  • Where surfaces are combustible or local code requires, install cement backer board or polymer-modified cement board fastened to studs with corrosion-resistant screws and maintain required moisture and flame clearances.
  • Remember the product is freeze-thaw resistant and suitable for high-salinity/humid climates when you provide a proper substrate and drainage plane.

Panel selection and layout planning: choose sizes, interlock type and same-batch material

Choose panel formats that match the elevation and handling constraints: standard rectangles at 150×600 mm (6×24 in) or 150×550 mm (6×22 in), with standard thickness from 10–25 mm and up to 35 mm for premium rough faces. For a seamless architectural finish, specify Z-Shape or S-Shape interlocking panels that use CNC diamond-blade precision male-female connections to hide vertical joints and present a continuous ledgestone appearance.

  • Order matching pre-fabricated L-corners for each model to avoid on-site texture mismatches at external corners.
  • Specify “same-batch quarry consistency” to reduce hue variation across large facades; Top Source Stone guarantees ~95% hue uniformity from the same quarry vein.
  • Plan box counts for layout: standard panels pack 7 pcs/box (0.63 m²) or 8 pcs/box (0.72 m²); use these numbers to sequence crates and avoid mid-project lot changes.

Adhesive and fixing specifications: mortar type, coverage and mechanical anchors

Specify a polymer-modified cementitious thinset formulated for natural stone and exterior use and verify compatibility with slate, quartzite or your chosen material. Back-butter each panel to ensure full-contact bedding and calculate thinset consumption from panel coverage: use the carton coverage (0.63–0.72 m²) to estimate mortar volumes and waste factors.

  • Preferred adhesives: Laticrete MVIS system for full thin-stone veneer projects; consider Adiseal for high-flex, non-staining MS polymer performance or LATAPOXY 310 when a high-strength epoxy bond is required.
  • Use stainless steel mechanical anchors or masonry screws when substrate capacity is limited; space anchors according to engineer or manufacturer guidance and size anchors for panel weights (30–40 kg/m² for flat, ~55 kg/m² for rough).
  • Select anchors with embedment and pull-out capacity that exceed the calculated shear and uplift from the veneer weight plus a safety factor; verify corrosion resistance for coastal or humid sites.

Installation sequence: dry-fit, bed, interlock, integrate L-corners and control joints

Dry-lay panels beginning at the lowest external corner to establish the interlock pattern and sight lines, correcting any run or step before you apply mortar. Apply thinset and back-butter each panel, press to full contact and engage the male-female interlock so vertical joints disappear visually and the stacked ledgestone reads continuous.

  • Install prefabricated L-corners to wrap external edges; cut panels only when necessary using a CNC or diamond blade to preserve the split-face texture.
  • Provide 3–10 mm expansion/control joints at terminations, vertical offsets and plane changes to accommodate thermal movement and building differential movement.
  • Work in manageable areas so thinset stays plastic; clean excess mortar and maintain consistent joint widths as you advance upward and laterally.

Verification, curing, sealing and ongoing maintenance

Inspect the finished installation by tapping panels to find hollow spots and perform random pull tests where anchors or bonding conditions looked marginal. Repair voids with polymer-modified grout or cement and verify full cure times per the thinset manufacturer’s data, remembering that cold or humid conditions slow cure rate and extend handling times.

  • Wait until mortar achieves the manufacturer-specified cure before sealing or loading the surface; follow cold/humid cure adjustments in the technical data sheet.
  • Apply a breathable penetrating sealer rated for quartzite/slate to protect against staining while maintaining vapor permeability; the stone offers inherent UV stability and high salinity/humidity resistance when you seal correctly.
  • Document material lot numbers, photograph crates and installed panels for warranty records, and recommend a routine cleaning schedule using pH-neutral cleaners to preserve appearance and adhesion over time.

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Managing the Thickness: How Much Room Depth Will You Lose?

Small differences in panel thickness and installation method control whether a retrofit trims a few centimetres of room depth or noticeably intrudes on the opening.

Calculate net depth loss: panel thickness, profile, and projection

Start with the opening depth and subtract the combined thickness of the stone panel plus the bonding layer to calculate usable depth. Top Source stacked stone panels run 1.0–2.5 cm in standard profiles and up to 3.5 cm for rough/premium profiles. Plan for a back-butter/setting-bed thinset of roughly ½”–¾” (12–19 mm) when you finalize the net depth; if you must install metal lath and a scratch coat, add another 3/8″–3/4″ (9–19 mm).

  • Typical panel options: 1.0–2.5 cm (standard) or up to 3.5 cm (rough/premium).
  • Panel sizes: 6″ x 24″ (150 x 600 mm) and 6″ x 22″ (150 x 550 mm); orient panels to reduce perceived intrusion — horizontal runs shorten visible seams, vertical runs can make the opening read taller.
  • Quick formula: usable depth = opening depth − panel thickness − adhesive thickness − optional scratch coat thickness.

Installation method effects: dry-stack, mortared, and interlocking systems

Choose the installation method to control projection and visual bulk. Dry-stack or straight-edge installs use the thinnest profiles and low-profile joints to keep projection minimal; these systems rely on precise back-buttering and typically stay within the 1.25″–2″ overall projection range noted for thin veneer retrofits. Mortared installs require a thicker bedding and may need a backing layer or scratch coat, so budget an extra 3/8″–3/4″ for the mortar bed when you plan clearances.

  • Dry-stack / straight-edge: lowest substrate concealment, lowest projection — select this when minimizing room-depth loss matters most.
  • Mortared installs: expect additional depth for mortar bed and backing; specify thinset or Type S veneer mortar and include its thickness in the net-depth calculation.
  • Interlocking Z-Shape / S-Shape: male-female edges hide vertical joints and substrate, so they often reduce perceived bulk even when nominal thickness matches straight-edge panels.
  • Use CNC diamond-blade precision edges available from Top Source for interlocking series to ensure tight fit and keep face planes flush.

Fireplace retrofit guidance: choose thickness, verify load, and use corner solutions

For retrofits, pick standard 1.0–2.5 cm panels to limit loss of usable opening while preserving the stone look. Confirm that framing and substrate can carry the chosen finish: flat panels weigh roughly 30–40 kg/m² and rough panels about 55 kg/m², so check structural capacity before specifying a heavier profile. Use Top Source matching L-corners to wrap openings and avoid custom build-ups that increase projection at corners.

  • Verify load: measure area and calculate total weight (kg/m² × m²) and validate framing or chimney footing with a structural inspector when weights exceed typical flat-panel loads.
  • Choose matching L-corners to achieve a flush 90° transition without additional substrate thickness.
  • Schedule installation: plan one to two days for a standard fireplace retrofit when you use thin veneer and proven adhesive systems; confirm this with your installer once you lock panel thickness and method.
  • Factor environment: specify Top Source panels for UV stability and high salinity/humidity resistance when the hearth sits in coastal or high-humidity climates common to GCC and Southeast Asia markets.

Conclusion

Following the step-by-step retrofit and surface preparation ensures a safe, durable stone finish; correct adhesion, anchoring, and clearance checks protect occupants and the chimney system. Proper installation keeps the assembly compliant with safety standards, including OSHA where applicable, and extends the lifespan of the fireplace and stone cladding.

Start by inspecting your fireplace’s current setup and clearances, and compare them to the installation checklist in the core guide. If you prefer, contact us to request certified samples, technical specifications, and a project-ready checklist.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Can you install natural stacked stone over a painted brick fireplace?

Yes. Retrofitting commonly leverages the existing fireplace opening and structure so applying a stone veneer over painted brick is typically done as a retrofit rather than a full rebuild. This avoids expensive demolition and reconstruction, lowers installation costs, and can often be completed in one to two days.

2. Do you need metal lath when installing stone over brick?

Not necessarily. One of the core benefits of retrofit upgrades is avoiding demolition—you can often build the new facing onto the existing brick, which reduces installation time and cost compared with removing and replacing masonry.

3. What is the best adhesive for stacked stone on brick?

The provided research does not specify adhesives or bonding materials. The content focuses on retrofit benefits (lower costs, use of existing structure, shorter install times). For adhesive selection follow the stone manufacturer’s recommendations and code requirements or consult a qualified installer.

4. How much thickness does stacked stone add to a brick fireplace?

The research does not give specific thickness figures. It emphasizes that retrofit installations use the existing opening and typically have shorter install times (often one to two days). Actual veneer thickness depends on the stone product chosen and manufacturer specifications.

5. Can existing brick support the weight of natural stacked stone?

The research does not address structural load or damage from added cladding. It does note that retrofits leverage existing infrastructure to avoid demolition. If added material weight is a concern, have a qualified professional or structural engineer inspect the chimney before installation.

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